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PENTATHALON ENTRY: DIVISION 5, DOMESTIC ARTS & SCIENCES: HERBCRAFT

A Collection of Herbal Products

1. Title of Entry A Collection of Herbal Products for Comfort and Taste, Based Primarily on 15th-16th Century Sources.
2. Audience Items in this collection would generally be used in the homes of the middle class and up. Few members of the nobility would have actually made the products in this entry, but certainly their households would have produced or procured such things as are presented here.
3. Era Most of the receipts used as inspirations come from the household manuals of the sixteenth century. The selection of culinary spices/herbs are culled from a list of 15th century herbs.
4. Where Recipes and inspirations for the items in this project come from many places; primarily from England, but France, Persia, and Germany are all visited, too.
5. Tools & Materials Soap, vinegar, white and brown sugar, honey, patchouli essential oil, grater, bowls, bags, sewing needles and thread, mortar & pestle, pans, see attached list for herbs and botanical names.
6. Techniques Air-dry, foraging, gardening, grinding, mixing, sewing, cooking and reducing, et cetera.
7. Appendix Annotated Bibliography
8. Appendix 2 Botanical names of herbs used

1-4. Selection of herbal products used in homes able to afford such products. The receipts used are mostly from the sixteenth century.

5. See front page and list of herbs attached.

6. Techniques: Some of the herbal products used were procured from a health food store, specifically, the orris root powder, the rose water, and the patchouli essential oil. Cloves and cinnamon I used from my spice rack; as these would be imported spices in period, I felt like this was appropriate. I grew or foraged everything else myself. I allowed it to dry on fine screens and then packed it away in jars that I had salvaged from my kitchen until I needed to use the herbs, for the most part. The "foraged" orange peels, however, had to be cut up with a knife before drying. As a parenthetical comment, just a bag full of dried orange peel makes a nice sweet bag; the scent, when I open that jar, is pleasant beyond compare.

The actual products are soaps, syrups, and sweet bags.

Soaps: The following receipts come from Sir Hugh Platt, DELIGHTS FOR LADIES (1594)

A ball to take out stains from linnen

Take foure ounces of white hard Sope; beat in a mortar with two small Lemmons sliced, and as much roch Allome as an hasell nut; roule it up in a ball; rub the staine therewith;and after, fetch it out with warm water, if need be"

A delicate washing ball

Take three ounces of Orace, half an ounce of Cypres, two ounces of Calamus Aromaticus, one ounce of Rose leaves, two ounces of Lavender flowers; beat all these together in a mortar, searcing them thorow a fine Searce, then scrape some castill sope, and dissolve it with some Rose-Water, then incorporate all your powders therewith, by laboring of them well in a mortar"

I made 3 soaps, two of which closely follow the second receipt, and one which is procedurally based on the second but loosely inspired by the first.

As both of the quoted receipts start with a base of ready-made soap, I purchased several bars of castile soap to make these receipts. I bought castile soap not only because the recipe I chose calls specifically for castile soap, but because modern commercial soap has had the glycerin removed from it; this is a major difference between period body soaps and modern body soaps.

Two soaps are essentially redactions of the second receipt above. For the first one, the flatish one with lots of white showing, I grated the soap, mixed the ingredients that I had (I did not have cypress or calamus aromaticus) in a mortar and ground them, heated some rosewater, added the water to the soap, then added the herbs. I mixed them with my hands, and, after working in as much of the herbs as I could, produced one soap. In the rosewater there remained quite a lot of the herbs, so I decided to try the receipt again, but this time, I grated the soap directly into the water. This made a big difference in how well the soaps blended—and in how many balls I got out of the recipe. The round, spiky, pale green balls are the result of that, and the single bar produced 8 delicate washing balls. In any event, I formed the balls and set them aside to dry.

The third ball presented here, a dark green ball, was an experiment with lemon balm and peppermint in place of the floral scented herbs. I followed the same procedure as with the second batch of washballs—that is, I grated the soap into warmed water already containing the herbs, as that process seemed to work better than the first.

Syrups: two syrups based on the sekanjabin receipt enclosed after the list of herbs appendix. There are also receipts for such syrups in the European household books of the 16th century, although such syrups appear to have been intended for medicinal use rather than simple gustatory pleasure. The syrup of Vinegar in the Hess transcription is intended to treat a fever; this is also a suggested use of sekunjabin in the period Andalusian recipe translated by D. Friedman (see attached).

Both syrups were made on the same day and as experiments. I’d tasted mint sekunjebin in the past, and had liked it, but thought to experiment and find something even more appealing to my taste. I first tried substituting two cups of brown sugar for two of the cups of white sugar in the standard sekunjabin recipe. Well, that was pleasant enough, but the brown sugar flavor was really powerful—I had to add more mint than the receipt called for because the brown sugar was unexpectedly strong. I’d had something lighter in mind. For the second batch, I did not mess with the proportions of the basic ingredient list, but instead used different herbs: lemon balm and lemon verbena leaves. Lemon balm is certainly in use as a culinary or medicinal herb in period; lemon verbena, as a New World herb, may have been known in period, as the Spanish colonists loved it and brought it back to Spain, but I have not yet found definitive evidence that lemon verbena was known in period. However, I didn’t have quite enough lemon balm to get the flavor I wanted, so I added the verbena. Interestingly, I also noted that the candied lemon verbena leaves made a tasty snack!

Thus, in both syrups, I put water, distilled white vinegar, and sugar in a pan. I heated these ingredients until the sugar was melted, and then I added the herbs. I let the herbs cook in the syrup mixture until they turned, oh, kind of crispy is the best way to describe it, and then I removed and discarded (or ate!) them.

I intend to make more syrups in this way, experimenting with different wine vinegars, maybe honey instead of sugar, and a variety of herbs. The Hess transcription has an amazing variety of syrups, and I’d like to try them all and more.

Sweet Bags: two bags of potpourri. Hess’s transcription includes a number of receipts for potpourri, perfumes, and "sweet bags." I did not have the needed ingredients to exactly replicate the receipts as presented in the Hess transcription. Therefore, I used what I had that was period and followed the directions to the best of my ability! Two of the receipts from Hess follow:

#314. To make a perfume to stand in the room. Take 2 or 3 quarts of rose buds or the leaves of a damask roses, and put them in a pot with bay salt, three or four grains of musk, and as much of ambergris, twenty or thirty drops of oil of rodium, and a little benjamin, and storeax together in a chiney pot, or any other that is handsome and keep it always close covered. But when you have a mind to have your room sweet, you may take off the cover.

#316. To make moss powder for a sweet bag. Take two pounds of the moss of the sweet apple tree, gathered between the two Lady days, and infuse it in a quart of damask rose water, 24 hours, then take it out and dry it in an oven on sive bottoms. Then beat it into powder, and put into one ounce of lignum aloes beaten and searced, two ounces of orriss, a dram of musk, half a dram of ambergris, a quarter of a dram of civit. Put all these into a hot mortar and beat them together with a hot pestle. Then searce them through a coarse hare searce. After, put into a bag and lay it amongst your (linens ?). {transcription unclear}

I based two mixtures upon these receipts. In reading them, I came to understand that I needed several herbal ingredients to act as perfumes, fixatives, and carriers of essential oils. I gathered my ingredients from my storage area and tossed them into a bowl, blended them up, and covered them. I then put them aside to allow the scents to blend and age for a bit. The rose mixture smells pretty much the same now as it did when made, as it is primarily rose based, but the second mix, the spicier mix, at first smelled very strongly of cloves but has now blended nicely into a spicy scent with a strong tone of patchouli.

#1) Orange peels, rose petals, rosewater. All things just added into a bowl and mixed, as described above. I did not choose to grind the ingredients to a fine powder, because earlier experience with herbal scent bags has taught me that whole herbs will retain scent longer and will deliver a delightful increase in scent when I squeeze the bag in my hand, even when the herbal mix seems to have no more scent to it. I put the mixture, after letting it age a week or so, into a plastic bag, primarily to protect the cloth of my little sweet bag, and then put the plastic bag into the small bag. Orange peels work both as an additional scent and a fixative.

#2) Patchouli EO, cinnamon, cloves, oranges, lemon balm. Same procedure as above. I was a little hesitant about using the patchouli EO, as patchouli, as a perfume plant, didn’t arrive in England until 1800 or so. However, patchouli was in use in the orient as a moth repellant and scent during period; individuals purchasing cloth imported from the orient would have been familiar with the scent because of its use in protecting the cloth. As I love patchouli, I went ahead and used it, based on the fact that I would have smelled it in my silk stores, even if I didn’t know what it was!

Annotated Bibliography

PRIMARY SOURCES

Borradaile, V. & R., translators. The Strasburg Manuscript: A Medieval Painter’s Handbook. Alec Tiranti. London:1966. Contains directions for making several sorts of "good soap" from scratch.

Friedman, D. & E. Cook. Cariadoc's Miscellany: Drinks http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/cariadoc/drinks.html. Source of redacted period recipes; Sikanjabîn is presented both as a traditional recipe and a period receipt.

Gerard, J. Gerard’s Herbal: A History of Plants. M. Woodward, ed. Senete. London:1994. Greatly shortened version of the massive, late 16th c. herbal by John Gerard. While quite useful in identifying plants and their lore, it was not as helpful as the household books, see Hess, K., Platt, H., and Nostradamus, M.

Hess, K, transcriber. Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats. Columbia UP. New York: 1995. Book of Elizabethan and Jacobean receipts, including many herbal comforts and treats, said to have been owned by Martha Washington.

Nostradamus, M. The Elixirs of Nostradamus. K. Boeser, ed. Moyer Bell. Wakefield, RI: 1996. Collection of herbal, cosmetic, and other receipts written by the French physician, Nostradamus, and printed in 1552. I did not specifically redact any of these receipts; however, there is much similarity between the receipts in this book and the other 16th century books.

Platt, Hugh. Delights for Ladies. 1594. Compendium of late Elizabethan household receipts, et cetera.

Smith, C. and J. Hawthorne. Mappe Clavicula: A Little Key to the World of Medieval Techniques. American Philosophical Society. Philadelphia:1974. Anonymous treatise of the 10th century, containing a vast and varied number of receipts for making all sorts of things. Contains instructions on making castile soap and a suggestion for improving soap; that is, in receipt 288-D, writer instructs that soap will be made better and reddish if poplar berries are added. While this book contains a plethora of receipts, the number of household receipts are limited and often randomly inserted, making them difficult to find.

SECONDARY SOURCES

Kowalchik, C & W. Hylton, ed. Rodale's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs. Rodale Press. Emmaus, PA: 1987

Kruger, A. Herbs. Dragon’s World. London:1992. Useful herbal, provides better drawings of the herbs than any of the other herbals in this reference list, and as such, is indispensable when in the field hunting down herbs for foraging. This would certainly be an instance when a modern reference is a far sight better than a period reference. Unfortunately, the range of herbs covered is not as extensive as Rodale or Gerard.

Landsberg, S. The Medieval Garden. Thames & Hudson. New York:1995. Useful, well illustrated book on medieval gardens, including useful lists of plants mentioned as grown in a variety of period sources not necessarily related to herbals.

 

Appendix 2

Herbs used in this entry, by common and Latin name

Cinnamon Cinnamomum zeylanicum
Clove Syzygium aromaticum
Lavender Lavandula angustifolia
Lemon Balm Melissa officinalis
Lemon Verbena Aloysia triphylla
Mint Mentha spp.
Peppermint Mentha spp.
Orange Citrus spp.
Orris Iris X germanica var. florentina
Rose Rosa spp.

 


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This document created May 2001
Last edited, 25 July 2005