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GONFALON: A flag or banner flown from a horizontal bar.
Properly made, it is square or rectangular, sometimes with dags of
material at the bottom. The ubiquitous eschutcheon-shaped banner one sees
in the SCA is not a period shape, however, it would probably fall into the
gonfalon category because it is suspended from a horizontal
bar.
Other Sites, Supporting Documents
Heraldic
Embroidery: Links to other examples of heraldic embroidery.
British Museum: COMPASS: Search for museum number
M&ME 1919,3-5,1 to see an early 14th c. applied embroidery
panel.
V&A Access to
Images: Search for museum item
numbers T.195-1914, T.120-1932 T.262-1968 to
see examples of pillow/cushion covers featuring heraldry.
Search for item number T.46-1972
to see an unfinished heraldic slip. |
Heraldic Arts
and Sciences: Beyond the Banner and Shield
Part 7: A Pillow Cover with
Embroidery
The current project is made
from second-hand materials. All items are some version of recycled
materials, mostly purchased second-hand or salvaged from other
projects.
There are many examples of
pillow covers in period. The standard SCA interpretation of a heraldic
embroidered pillow cover tends to treat the whole pillow as the field, or
to embroider the heraldic element as a central item and leave the rest of
the pillow cover untouched.
However, most of the pillow
covers I have seen treat the armorial element as just one more thing in a
larger design.
This project features an embroidery done separately and applied to a
velvet ground. Because the diapering I intended to include on the
embroidery had to be abandoned, I am planning to use leftover trim to
create a patterened background on the green velvet. While many pillows and
cushions were covered by direct embroidery, the 16th century also saw the
rise of the slip, a small domestic embroidery, usually done in
tent stitch, and applied to satin or velvet grounds. Probably the most
famous example of slips in use are those of Mary, applied to the
Oxborough and Marian Hangings.
However, the idea of applying small embroidered pieces to larger items
isn't unique to the 16th century; for instance, the St. Martin
embroideries are a series of fifteenth century embroidered roundels
originally applied perhaps to an alterpiece of some sort before being
reused in the seventeenth century for chasubles or
other ecclesiastical garments. See M. Freeman's The St. Martin
Embroideries for more information.
This project, then, follows a long tradition of
reusing embroideries, of applying them to velvet, and of further
enhancing the ground material with applied braids and so forth.
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The several items that will be made into the pillow cover.
- A length of green cotton velvet purchased from a thrift store
scrap bin.
- A length of green and gold braid salvaged from a costume that
failed
- A length of black and gold trim salvaged from a friend's
"to the trash" pile
- A pillow purchased from a thrift store
- An embroidery, made from salvaged materials, and itself
salvaged from its original mounting
The embroidery features a woman holding a gonfalon; the dags of
the gonfalon are embellished with a red pale on a white base for the
Middle Kingdom and a red seablatt inverted for Sept Pendray. The
main body of the gonfalon is the populace badge for
Northshield.
(Yes, it's a self-portrait, from my days as an
apprentice.) |
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The cartoon for the embroidery, still in my files after all these
years, with original design notes to the side. I had intended to
diaper the background, but, like several other things, the diapering
did not make it to the final product.
It started out as a whim, made with what I had to hand. The
embroidery is on a linen ground salvaged from a pre-printed crewel
kit; the embroidery done with a combination of crewel wools and
knitting-weight yarn (also salvaged). I had traced the design from
the cartoon to the cloth with a black washable marker.
The need to cover every inch of the cloth with the thick yarn is
part of why some of the design elements were elimentated; the
resulting ground was so thick and distorted that I couldn't
comfortably embellish it any more. |
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The back of the embroidered panel. It had originally been mounted
to a larger heraldic banner made of inexpensive cotton/poly canvas
in red and green.
The panel was mounted with a very firm Wonder-Under type of
material and then sewn down to the banner.
However, the overall effect of the embroidery on the inexpensive
canvas was not to my liking, and so I used the banner as a curtain
in my home for several years. In time, the constant exposure to the
sun discolored the canvas, and I took it down.
The mounting was so firm that there was nothing for it; the
embroidered panel had to be cut away and the mounting left
intact. |
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21 April
2006: And much time goes by, until I decide to finish the
thing...
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I decided to switch out the cotton velvet
for some green crushed panne stretch velvet scraps. I made a dress
out of this stuff as a gift and had plenty of scraps. It's
pretty enough and using it would leave the cotton velvet for use in
SCA dresses--something the panne velvet can't do. I also
switched out the initial pillow for this rectangular feather
pillow I bought in a thrift
store.
The scraps were fairly large and oddly shapped, and were just
enough to cover the pillow. And, honestly, the panne velvet will be
less work, as the edges won't need
finishing. |
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Unfortunately, the combinations of
materials didn't run through my sewing machine well, and I was too
impatient to dink around with the tension settings every time I switched
from the various sections. It all worked best when I was pulling on
the velvet a little, but this left the center, under the
embroidery, under tension and made the embroidery bow. I cut a small hole in
the center to relieve the tension. In a way, it's a happy
accident, because I can now tuck a little packet of dried lavender in
there, thereby scenting the pillow.
These flipped over views represent the moment after the
embroidery is sewn down, and after the trim is (mostly) sewn down.
The tension versus muliple layers, sections, and materials issue
would force me to finish off the application of the trim by
hand.
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Hard to see here, but the pattern had to be
created by just pinning the various pieces together. There wasplenty of excess in
some spots, and other spots barely came together. The shapes were
odd, as mentioned, and there were no straight lines in sight. The
back has an opening, hinted at in this picture, so that the cover
can be used on other pillows and removed for cleaning if needed. |
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The cover, sewn and put on the pillow. The second braid, the green and gold, wasn't
used--it was hardly noticable against the panne. The black and
gold trim sets off the trim nicely, I think. Of course, the
embroidery is fairly late Gothic looking while the trim is
fabulously Rennaisance in pattern, but it's hardly worth quibbling about;
I just wanted a new setting for my embroidery that would be
a nice ambiance piece. I believe I've met that goal.
I may add tassles to the 4 corners, I think that would be a nice,
easy embellishment.
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A very
simple heraldic pillow by Mistress Ghita; the red sun is the primary
charge on the arms of Master Thorvald
Redhair. |
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A nicely embroidered set of
pillows for the Prince and Princess of Northshield. These are the full-field
sort of pilows I often see in my
travels. |
{Elyse Boucher} {Arts and Sciences Top} {A&S Heraldry} {Poopie the Pirate} {Help Support
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