Part one of this year’s Post Pennsic Planner.
So, for the past couple of years, I have been working on refashioning some linen under dresses as my primary costume project. This is a wrap up entry that discusses what I have learned from the experience and what I plan to do going forward.
First, let me talk about…
Carmine Refashionista Dress: DETW!
DETW being the acronym for my famous slack ass “complete” category: Done Enough To Wear.
Here’s a reminder of what I started with:
A very loose linen hooded jacket and skirt set and a pink linen shirt. I had originally planned to make the skirt length appropriate by adding material in the same fashion as was done with the Green Refashionista Dress, but doing so with the pink shirt required too much work. Really. The immense amount of disassembly and reassembly that would have been needed to get a solid band across the upper calf here would have been ridiculously time consuming and would still have needed most of the brown skirt to make the final stripe. So, instead, I did alternating color blocks across the bottom:
Because it’s hanging on a dummy nowhere nearly as endowed as me, it might be a little hard to notice the serious amount of refitting the jacket had to undergo to make a reasonable kirtle shape. The removal of the hood, change to neckline, center front seam instead of a center front opening, and shortening to waist from the hip length of the original would be obvious changes, but what is not obvious is that the shoulder had to be moved up and the sides and sleeves had to be taken in an inch and a half on each side. OMG. I had to play with that jacket for quite a while to get something that would look okay and still allow for movement.
The skirt had to be disassembled, about 8 inches cut from the length axis and added to the width axis in order to get a fuller skirt. I used the dye fade from the elastic waist as a decorative element, but I’m not sure I love that. However, when the dress is properly accessorized, the apron covers the band, so I don’t actually have to commit to liking or disliking the ultimate effect.
Overall, it’s a loose fitting underdress appropriate for Pennsic or working in the kitchen at an event as an outer clothing piece. It will also be appropriate under a tighter fitting outer dress, and I’m thinking of making a loose gown … but that discussion is for a later section.
What I learned from this 3-year project.
The first piece of linen I refashioned would eventually become The Linen Kirtle From Hell, eventually considered DETW here.
It remains my favorite refashionista under dress. In all, I have created:
1. The linen kirtle from hell.
2. The Under dress for the Green Gothic Fitted/Early Tudor Dress.
3. Black linen choli with black linen coif (coif is now lost, and I am teh sade about that)
4. White linen choli
5. Green Refahionista Dress
6. Carmine Refashionisa Dress
7. Natural linen apron to go with CRD
8. 2 pairs of linen “Saracen” underwear.
9. A linen headscarf or shoulder scarf.
10. A linen shift.
And, still in progress, a linen partlet, made with the portions of brown skirt that did not have to be sacrificed to the CRD.
I do still have more linen garments that can be used for refashioning, but I do not really plan to make entire large garments from refashioned items (a la the GRD or the CRD) again. I think my major phase here is done. And this is what I learned:
*This is a very different style of thinking about creating garments, with a process distinct from using whole cloth. I never slip into what might be called a persona mindset while sewing from whole cloth, but have done so while refashioning. It’s a very period thing to do, remake old clothing into new clothing. That said, it’s also far more time consuming than I can afford. If I’d stuck with whole cloth, I could have replaced my Pennsic wardrobe in a year. It took three and maybe more. Refashioning is going to have to be relegated to smaller garments henceforth. I just can’t afford that much time for these projects.
*The more severely changed refashioned garments can not stand up to machine washing. Even with the seams double sewn and the edges given a zigzag stitch finish to prevent raveling, there is still a certain amount of repair that has to be done every time. They need to be washed by hand and line dried. So. heh, that’ll be a new period experience for me–spot cleaning and brushing and the occasional scour* instead of just a toss in a washer.
*Of the various dresses, my favorite one remains the Linen Kirtle from Hell–this is also the one that had been made from a skirt I’d previously made and hated. The advantage of that was that I was just able to structure the bodice directly to my shape rather than trying to make something that had already been constructed for someone else work for me.
*And a few other things that I’ll edit in later, because I’m big with the wanting to move on to the next portion of this thing.
So, anyway, I’ve at least 3 large yardages of 100% linen to make three more gowns. For those, I have a few expectations: french or flat felled or other closed seams; lining assembled as part of outer layer rather than as a shell; and no further machine washing. That should take care of the primary problems.
And the next phase of never ending costuming is:
Court garb replacement.
I love court garb. I stopped seriously making it when the hypothyroidism got so bad that I no longer maintained a consistent body shape over the course of a year. I slowed down to making 1 a year, then I slowed down to making one every 2 years, and now I haven’t made anything new since 2005.
Okay. I’m looking at that. I haven’t made something that I actually feel pretty in since 2005. And worse, I don’t feel particularly pretty in that 2005 dress. The linen underdresses are great, but they are not meant to flatter, they’re meant to be cool at Pennsic and appropriate under better clothing. In pursuing this persona project, I’ve taken from myself one of the things I liked the most about costuming: the opportunity to make something I feel lovely wearing.
I found a couple of dresses I’d planned out more than 5 years ago, maybe more. One is a nice cotton upholstery overdress already cut out and ready for assembly, BUT, that is, I now know too late, not patterned right for the style of clothing (Burgundian). I should be able to recover the dress enough to hide the pattern flaws under the appropriate accessories. I also found a bag filled with an Italian Ren pattern, a swatch of cotton upholstery, garnets, and enough of an unknown spinach-green fabric to finish the dress. I’m guessing that the amount of fabric that is there means it’s probably some kind of cotton blend, because at that time, I wasn’t able to buy that much fabric and that many gems, and so, IIRC, I chose to invest in the gems as I wasn’t sure about the fit of the pattern. I might have also bought it with the idea that the voluminous skirt could eventually be replaced with better fabric if I constructed the bodice with enough strength to last for years. In any event, I did NOT cut that one out previously and so can at least make sure it gets into the early end of my favorite era–1485-1558.
I suppose I should start with those dresses, as they are already started, and then, as I work on them, plan for what I next will make. I know I’d like to make a loose gown; I’d like to find examples of the same, should they exist, from about 1530. If not, I guess I’ll make an Elizabethan one. And thus will I eventually replace some of the court gowns I don’t ever wear anymore (4 Italian Rens and three stretch velvet kirtles that were my first solution to the up-and-down weight issue) and supplement those I have that I do wear. Yay. 
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*scouring a dress for cleaning versus handwashing: the idea is to spot clean the dress and then put the dress through a cold water soak, a warm water+ detergent/soap soak, repeat as needed, and then a rinse soak, repeat as needed, based on the process of scouring wool. This is supposed to be less rough on the fibers than any other type of hand washing.